They scratch it off so the MFGr can’t figure out which AD sold it grey market…
Like Higgs said, why would the faker scratch off the S/N?
i’ve never seen a reputable gray market dealer scratch off a sn before.
i i recall correctly, some people scratch off sn if they replace movements or real parts for cheap parts and then sell as genuine. by having the sn you can verify if the watch is 100% complete to factory production
i might be off on that
First, please don’t get a Longines.
Second, most young guys getting Rolex I feel usually go for GMT Master II…not gonna lie been considering one…I love the Pepsi Bezel but it only comes in a white gold band now (no more stainless steel) and the price is damn. Looking at pre-owned for a Rollie with the Pepsi Bezel…nothing wrong with pre-owned if legit dealer btw.
Third, strongly consider Omega…they’re beautiful watches and great quality. I bought an Omega Seamaster Professional brand new at an AD earlier this year. I got a 15% discount after some negotiating. Don’t buy grey market (Jomashop) if getting a timepiece…they are ok for cheap citizen/swiss army watches.
Fourth, I agree the blue Junghans Ohai put it up is awesome. I’m gonna look into that.
Fifth, just man up and do it.
I’m curious, why don’t get a Longines and why don’t buy from Jomashop? I have heard good things about both. And although I want a Speedmaster, why get it over the TAG or Longines, they all use ETA movements right?
Depends which Longines. Also, Omega will hold its value better over time and is higher in the Swiss watch hierarchy…but if those things don’t matter to you then ok. I would advise though that you go to a store and try them on. Choosing a watch is as much about the fit as it is the quality, functionality, aesthetics, etc. I’ve read many mixed reviews on Jomashop (I bought a citizen watch from them and experience was fine but the cardboard box it came in was damaged…luckily the watch was fine but I wouldn’t risk it with a higher quality watch). Also, if you’re going to spend the money on a timepiece, you should guarantee authenticity and have the factory warranty…IMO. I struggled with this too when I was considering purchasing and ultimately when with an AD.
Speedmaster is technically an in-house movement, and even if you consider Lemania an ETA, there are large quality differences IMO. It’s also manual wind so if you find that annoying - don’t buy it.
Ramos to be fair the Speedie is like 2 times the price of his current targets. Personally I would just save up because the cheaper watch you buy will get zero wrist time when you get the new one, and you will lose a lot when/if you sell it. You will always lust after something until you have it so why try to use a stop gap?
When I say speedy I am looking at the racing nit the pro
dude asks me to grab lunch for some interview on friday and shows up wearing some fossil looking watch … all respect lost
Decided to postpone, buy Speedie if I pass L3 instead of getting the TAG now and still wanting the Omega.
Now that I have passed L3 I will finally get myself a watch. Was almost set on the Sppedmaster, but before I pull the trigger what is the deal with the Breitling Superocean? Are these any good? Seem cheap for a Breitling
here is an example
https://www.jomashop.com/breitling-mens-watch-a1732016-c734blod.html
Cool looking watch. I don’t know how I feel about wearing a plastic band to work though. You may want to go leather: https://www.jomashop.com/breitling-watch-a1732024-b868bklt.html
That’s a 46mm watch. Make sure you know how big this is before you buy; this size of watch is suitable only for a big guy. There is a smaller, 42mm version of this that is suitable for more people, I believe. In any case, you definitely want something other than that blue rubber strap to make the watch more versatile. You can buy something aftermarket, but original manufacture produced accessories tend to be cheaper when you buy them with the watch in the first place.
Breitling Caliber 17 is built from an ETA normal movement that is used in many watch brands. So, you’re not getting something of especially high horological significance. So, if you decide to proceed, make sure you are happy with the case and fit and finish, as this is what differentiates this watch from other models that use a similar internal mechanism.
Great point on the case size. I would definitely be purchasing different bands for this and would probably rarely if ever wear the rubber strap. So for roughly $3,000 I have narrowed it down to the Speedmaster or the Superocean
Yo yo yo I’m gonna buy myself a 3k watch for passing a silly test
As a lowly LI candidate you might want to spend more time studying for your upcoming silly test rather than commenting on the forum
if it’s between the speedmaster racing and the super ocean, go with the speedmaster. it’ll stay in your collection a lot longer and you’ll love it years down the line. especially because the racing version is more distinct and interesting. if you want a diver, wait for the next milestone and get the submariner, or even consider the tudor black bay now.
Good call. Black face with yellow chrono hands or white chrono hands?
Don’t you have to manually wind the speedmaster? Or all Omegas for that matter?
The racing is automatic
Only a few models like the Speedmaster Pro, more for heritage reasons these days.